Domaine des Ronces
A family owned estate since 1950, Domaine Ronce is located in the little known southern regions of the Jura, Sud Revermont. The domaine was established by George Mazier who planted exclusively Chardonnay on his 1 hectare plot. Since then, his son, Michel has increased the holdings of the estate to 6 hectares while planting the red grapes Trousseau, Poulsard, and Pinot Noir along with the white grape Savignin. The estate began farming organically and biodynamically in 2010. In 2016, Demeter certified them biodynamic. At present, their small portion of Jura, in the town of Orbagna, flies under the radar. Indeed, although the terroir is well suited to grape growing, dairy farming continues to be a profitable business in the region, inhibiting the growth of new vineyards.
As with so many of their peers further North in the Jura, the Mazier family prefers to work as naturally as possible in the winery. Kevin Mazier, the third generation at the estate, has taken over from his father who introduced him to this approach which dictates native yeast ferments, minimal filtration, and low sulfur levels. The historical style of white wine in this southern region is called ouillé (‘topped of’) in contrast to the more rustic Jura whites that age sous voile (‘under veil’). Some argue that the making whites in topped up containers, something that is the norm almost everywhere in the wine world, respects the terroir of the region. On the other hand, the hand of the winemaker is very much apparent in those nutty, earthy, and evocative whites that age under a layer of yeast in a more oxidative environment. Kevin is experimenting with both styles to more fully understand what his plots of biodynamically fruit can produce.