The Estate was founded in 1895 in Courteron, a village located in the southern Champagne region in the Aube department, within the Côte des Bar. Ancient rivers used to meet there to form the Seine, shaping the slopes of the valleys where our vines are now growing facing south/south-West. Their 10 plots are spread over 15 hectares, and are composed of 85% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay; the remainder is split between Pinot Blanc (a historical variety in Champagne), Pinot Gris (replanted in 2010) and Pinot Meunier. Their oldest vines were planted in 1970, and every year new ones are replanted to preserve the quality and vitality of our vineyard. Two other vine-growers, who have converted to biodynamics since the early 90s, supply the estate with additional certified grapes.

The Côtes des Bars village of Courteron is a little far-flung. One is so far southeast as to be practically in Chablis, only it is more verdant here, with the vines situated a few minutes’ drive out of town on the swollen hills to the north. Morgane and her family professes they feel more Burgundienne or Chablisienne than Champenoise. It’s a judgment based on shared terroir—limestone and clay—and sheer proximity. (There is even a nearby village called Les Bourguignons.)

The domaine has gone through many changes and the younger generation (4th) has now made a move away from larger chains in Europe. The domaine’s departure with Carrefour has allowed a move towards higher-value markets. Around the same time Champagne Fleury stopped selling to Carrefour a few years ago, they debuted new labels, abandoning the frosted parchment look in favor of a more sober and contemporary logographic design.

Vineyard holdings are less fragmented here in the Côtes des Bars than they are in the northerly reaches of Champagne; most of Champagne Fleury’s holdings are in blocks of at least one hectare, the better to ensure the sanctity of their biodynamic agriculture from any neighbors farming differently.

“As time passes, we realize that our advantage among our organic and biodynamic colleagues is our anteriority,” she says. “We still have a bit of stock from the 1990’s, some that was not in biodynamics and others that are fully biodynamic, and it tastes differently. The recognition comes little by little, and it takes time.”